New Orleans Dining Grandes Dames Sure to Please
Part of New Orleans’ rich historical tapestry is its having been governed under six flags, imparting a vibrant culinary diversity. A host of restaurants that have met the standard of excellence by being long-time customer favorites deserve your consideration as you sample the amazing food scene. Here are two we particularly enjoyed:
Brennans—more than just Breakfast
Brennan’s opened in 1946 on Royal Street in the French Quarter and is located in a pink building built in 1795 by the great grandfather of Edgar Degas. It is well known for Breakfast at Brennan’s, which originated when owner Owen Brennan was teased that an Irishman’s Culinary skills ended with boiled potatoes.
It was here that the original Bananas Foster recipe was flambeed tableside. After the second world war, New Orleans became a major center for banana imports from Central and South America. In 1951 Owen Brennan challenged his chef to create a new dessert using the fruit. The result was a flambeed banana creation served over ice cream with rum, brown sugar, cinnamon, butter and banana liqueur.
We had lunch at the charming back patio, with a lot of greenery and a little fountain. The tables were white, pink and green patterned ceramic, and a little jazz music in the background added to the ambiance.
The amuse bouche, a very thin slice of toasted bread with tomatoes and melted camembert on top really got along very well, and Letizia said that for our next party we’ll serve that!
The food was delightful, including a Crab Merliton Remoulade appetizer, a spicy shrimp salad, and a pecan crusted redfish with zucchini and summer squash puree. We split several glasses of Pinot Grigio while savoring the beautiful day in lovely surroundings.
Commanders Palace—a Culinary Monument to Miss Ella
Your sampling of the classic restaurants of the city should also take you into the Garden District to enjoy a meal at Commanders Palace . A landmark since 1893, the restaurant’s signature exterior color is called Commanders Blue. In 1974 Ella Brennan and other family members took over operations, and she was a long-time presence in the culinary scene of the city.
There is a rich history at Commanders, which has received many accolades. Past Commanders chefs have included Emeril LaGasse and Paul Prudhomme. It has won James Beard awards for Best Restaurant, Best Chef South and Outstanding Service. It’s also a Wine Spectator Grand Award winner for 2018 and for 6 years running since 2012. The online wine list runs to 142 pages!
Commanders touts that in its kitchen, modern new cuisine meets haute creole. Chef Tony McPhail’s policy is that 90% of ingredients are to come within 100 miles of the chef’s kitchen.
The day of our visit, the St. Charles Avenue streetcar was not running to the Garden District from the French Quarter, so we arrived 7 or 8 minutes late. We apologized for that, but the very gracious hostess said not to worry, you’re never late here. Your reservation time is when you arrive!
We had lunch on the patio on a lovely, breezy afternoon, under the shade of an umbrella. Letizia had a delicious heirloom tomato salad. I had the trio of soups. I couldn’t decide between them, so they have an option of a sampling of all three in small cups. Blue crab bisque, gumbo, and the turtle soup with a little touch of sherry on top, all very good. Letizia got the gulf fish, the catch of the day, very spicy, served alongside collard greens with garlic. I had the quail and rice, and we finished the meal with a very decadent bread pudding, a specialty of the house.
Find your own favorite courtyard to settle into for lunch in the sun, your own favorite jazz brunch locale, your own favorite bar at which to perch and watch the quirky, wonderful passing scene and sample your way through the delicious Creole specialties that make New Orleans such a tantalizing dining destination.