Sleeping with History in Savannah

Savannah’s historic district provides a wealth of attractions and activities, centered on the Savannah River and River Street on the one hand, and inland on Bay Street and around the 22 remaining squares from city founder James Oglethorpe’s original plan. There is no lack of excellent lodging, with an array of historic structures and boutique-type hotels to stay in. Some even like to tout their haunted nature. Normally over the course of a 6-day, 5-night visit, we would settle into one place for the duration. But we wanted to sample a spectrum of choices and stayed only one night in each of five different places. Not advisable for the hassle factor of packing and repacking that occurred each day, but it did allow us to sample an array of the city’s best accommodations. Here’s what we found while sleeping in some of Savannah’s most historic properties.

Our first day we checked into The Bohemian Hotel Savannah Riverfront, Autograph Collection, beautifully situated in a historic cotton factor’s warehouse. Who were these factors? In the antebellum south, factors or agents helped cotton planters sell their crops. They were usually based in southern harbor cities such as Savannah, Charleston, New Orleans or Mobile, given that moving goods by ship was important when there was not as yet an efficient network of railroads.

A string of these historic buildings rise above cobblestoned River Street which fronts the Savannah River. The backs of the buildings are connected by small bridges over service alleys that lead to the higher ground of Bay Street. Many of these warehouses have been beautifully repurposed as hotels. The Bohemian is one of these. It presents an attractive red brick front with large windows to bring in the light. One piece of advice if you have a car. Despite the insistence of the staff that the hotel’s parking rates were comparable to local garages, we parked across the street at the Whitaker Street garage for a daily rate that was roughly half that of the hotel’s 24-hour access valet fee.
The décor and art in the inviting public areas is very unique, quirky, distinctive and artistic, yet somehow also conveyed a hominess that made it comfortable to relax and hang out. Upon entering, one is struck by the gray brick walls with beautiful wood floors, and dramatic, dark artwork reminiscent of a Diego Rivera workers mural from the 1930s plus a pair of large wooden orbs near the elevators

In the entry foyer, an angular high-backed chair with overstuffed cushions invites guests to sink in, linger and take in the passing scene, plus a leather couch with deep purple cushions and a nautical painting atop. The setting is great, with the color and spirit of River Street just steps away. The guest rooms are extremely comfortable, and our king room was well appointed, with a view out over River Street to the passing ships.

The Bohemian offers several inviting dining options. We made our way after settling into the room to its rooftop bar, Rocks on the Roof, where we sampled some delicious Georgia peel and eat shrimp with a tangy cocktail sauce from the small plates menu over glasses of Pinot Grigio and took in the view from the bar’s rooftop of the river scene below. For more substantial fare, Rocks on the River offers Southern contemporary food for breakfast, lunch and dinner with floor to ceiling windows providing an excellent perch from which to view the passing scene on River Street and the Savannah river.

Evenings the bar takes on a more boisterous, younger character. A fire pit warms on cool nights, but tonight we relied on a cool breeze off the river to provide some respite from the day’s heat. Later that evening we visited the boisterous Rocks on the Roof with live band for a nightcap of Pinot Grigio and sparkling Cava. We sat outside as the heat of the day dissipated and we were able to enjoy the river views and the Talmadge Bridge that leads across to South Carolina. To cap the night, we took a long walk along River Street. There are a full range of touristy bars, shops and restaurants , along with some nightspots jumping with live music. The setting is scenic, and a nice place to stroll with benches to rest and soak in the river scene. We saw a huge barge pass that took up the whole middle of the river, very quiet and low lit. The cobblestoned street provides pedestrians with exits via occasional ramps and steep staircases leading back up to Bay Street. The next morning, we watched delivery personnel challenged in rolling beer kegs or dollies of supplies up and down the steep street to restaurant service entrances.
Before moving into our next accommodation, we had a full morning and early afternoon to explore Savannah’s historic district. A self-guided walking tour sounded ideal, and we discovered a very helpful map and tour online that combined history and fitness called How to explore Savannah in 10,000 steps. The post has a map tracing the route, plus several videos that explain each part of the tour. It’s a great way to take in many of the areas and sights of historical Savannah.

We had a simple move just down Bay Street to our next hotel, The Cotton Sail, a boutique hotel housed in a refurbished late-1800s cotton warehouse. It’s more contemporary and simpler in its décor than its neighbor the Bohemian. The hotel website explains that the main lobby and each of its 56 guest rooms are anchored with 200-year-old heart of pine hardwood floors originating from the roof of the old cotton factory.

The hotel enjoys the same great setting overlooking the river and Bay Street. The service provided by front-desk personnel was very friendly and professional, and we found the setting very convenient for city explorations. Our room was enhanced by a small balcony and river views. To tide ourselves over until dinner, we went up to the Top Deck and had a glass of wine and hot pretzel with three dipping sauces. There was a much younger crowd at the bar, which overlooks both historic Savannah and Bay Street on one side, and River Street and the Savannah River on the other.

We moved our explorations into the heart of the historic district, away from the river and into several of the beautiful historic mansions typically situated on one of Savannah’s many lovely squares. Our first such stop was at the Eliza Thompson House. Built in 1847, it offers visitors a tranquil stay at a lovely boutique hotel very centrally located. It has 12 rooms in the Main House and 13 rooms in a Carriage House overlooking the delightful, brick-paved interior courtyard with overhanging trees draped with Spanish moss. Eliza herself used to enjoy entertaining in the courtyard while husband Joseph made a living buying and selling, surprise, cotton.

Kellie the proprietor provided a very pleasant welcome to the property. Our room was small, bed and breakfast style, but with nice view of a corner of the courtyard. We succumbed to an afternoon temptation to rest on the bed while a light breeze caused the moss and leaves to gently sway and cast shadows on the walls of the room. The inn is located on atmospheric Jones Street, which Southern Living magazine called “the most beautiful street in Savannah “, just a block away from Mrs. Wilkes famous restaurant featuring regional favorites like southern fried chicken.

Back at the inn, we had a late afternoon glass of wine and some cheese and crackers, meatballs and deviled eggs while enjoying the courtyard with its burbling, koi-filled fountain and cast-iron tables and chairs, a setting reminiscent of New Orleans. After dinner we sat briefly in the antique-filled parlor to thumb through a thick restaurant menu pages book before turning in for the night.
A lazy Sunday morning at the Eliza Thompson House was a pleasure, with a leisurely breakfast enjoying the intimate courtyard setting and a beautiful, sunny day. Tea for two, a ripe juicy grapefruit followed by heart fare including creamy grits, soft biscuits, fluffy pancakes and savory crab cakes were part of the repast.

On the agenda today was a visit to the Jepson Center for the Arts. The Telfair boasts the largest public collection of visual art by Lebanese writer Kahlil Gibran, best known as author of The Prophet, in North America. The museum has over 80 artworks, including both paintings and drawings, by the popular literary figure. We saw a special exhibition of female figures in his art. The Telfair’s sculpture collection is complemented by the long-term loan of Sylvia Shaw Judson’s Bird Girl, known for its appearance on the cover of the famous Savannah-based book Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.

Another member of note in Marriott’s Autograph Collection, the Mansion on Forsyth Park,  sits majestically alongside the spacious acres of Forsyth Park. The hotel is very family oriented, and has a more quiet, residential setting and is therefore more self-contained in terms of walking to other restaurants or sights.
There was easy street parking, and we received a warm welcome at reception as we checked in, complete with ice water and warm cookies! The mansion has its own restaurant, art gallery and attractive bar with piano.  

There is a small pool fronted by an architecturally attractive series of small columns. Though it was tempting on the hot day we visited, it was filled with a tribe of small ball-playing children, so hot though it was, we opted not to go swimming. We stayed cool instead by having a drink from the bar, a sparkling cava and full-bodied red from the Kessler Collection, plus a tender crab cake and let’s order more truffle fries.

The oldest hotel in Savannah, Marshall House has an attractive, weathered brick warehouse exterior and a reception area full of comfortable chairs and antique furnishings. The location is perfect for shopping on Broughton Street. We had a second floor Broughton Balcony room, which provides access to the handsome balcony with rocking chairs. The hotel has its own restaurant, and breakfast can be eaten on the back patio.

So far, so good. But coming up to the long, narrow hallway leading to our room, we were put more in mind of an aging boardinghouse. Inside the spacious room, there were squeaky floorboards and minimal, unadorned décor, leaving a feeling of being a bit haunted. Rooms need a bit of an update, some refreshing. And that balcony with rocking chairs was actually reachable only by climbing out of one’s window! The room faced the street and some noisy carousers were all too audible late into the night.
Savannah’s charm imbues its historic hotels. If access to nightlife is appealing, the choices along River Street such as the Bohemian or Cotton Sail, with their rooftop bars and River Street-facing restaurants, plus easy walking distance to live music venues, are a fun choice. If you would prefer a quieter, more relaxing immersion in the City’s history, consider a stay at one of the beautiful mansions, in particular the Mansion on Forsyth park or the Eliza Thompson House. Either way, the magic of Savannah will have you plotting your rapid return.