Top Farm to Table and Fin to Fork Dining Experiences in Savannah
Charleston may get the most press when it comes to fine dining reputation in the south, but its elegant neighbor Savannah, just 30 miles south below Hilton Head Island, is a delicious destination that mixes deep historical roots with a charming, elegant ambiance and a winning list of farm-to-table restaurants that will have you creating your daily travel itinerary around breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Savannah is long on history and charm. Founded by James Oglethorpe in 1733, Savannah is known as America’s first planned city, laid out in a grid with 24 squares, 22 of which still exist today. The city is a visual treat, from the architecture of the cotton factor’s warehouses fronting River Street and the Savannah River, to 30-acre Forsyth Park with its Spanish-moss laden oaks to the beautiful 1858 white cast iron fountain and bustling Saturday Farmer’s Market. History abounds with numerous interesting homes open for touring, including the birthplace of Girl Scouts founder Juliette Gordon Low.
Cultural references are plentiful from both literature and film. Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, John Berendt’s 1994 non-fiction novel and subsequent 1997 film brought legions of fans to town to visit the Mercer House where the historical crime occurred, and to see the Bird Girl Fountain from the book’s cover, originally in Bonaventure Cemetery and now on display at the Telfair Museum’s Jepson Center for the Arts. 1995’s Best Picture Academy Award-winning Forrest Gump also shown a spotlight on Savannah and its beautiful squares (Forrest’s famous bench from Chippewa Square is now on display at the Savannah History Museum).
But it was the abundance of delicious dining options that we built our itinerary around.
An early flight from New York meant our arrival in Savannah coincided with an early lunch. The Green Truck neighborhood pub fit the bill perfectly with an 11 a.m. opening. It’s a casual neighborhood spot, and proud of it. A Twitter comment shown on its homepage says it best: “Southern comfort is back.” Chosen by local alternative weekly newspaper Connect Savannah as having the city’s best gourmet burger and French fries, and a part of the city’s burgeoning Farm-to-table movement, Green Truck was a great introduction to the city’s cuisine and growing focus on locally-sourced products.
An early flight from New York meant our arrival in Savannah coincided with an early lunch. The Green Truck neighborhood pub fit the bill perfectly with an 11 a.m. opening. It’s a casual neighborhood spot, and proud of it. A Twitter comment shown on its homepage says it best: “Southern comfort is back.” Chosen by local alternative weekly newspaper Connect Savannah as having the city’s best gourmet burger and French fries, and a part of the city’s burgeoning Farm-to-table movement, Green Truck was a great introduction to the city’s cuisine and growing focus on locally-sourced products.
No reservations are accepted, so early arrival was necessary as the restaurant filled quickly with a hungry lunch crowd. Service was very friendly though a bit slow. Given the Green Truck’s reputation, I felt compelled to order the Green Truck Classic Burger, plain and simple as an old truck says the menu, topped simply with lettuce, tomato, onion and house-made pickles. The burger patty was rustically shaped by hand, odd corners welcomed here. Nice quality beef from nearby Hunter Cattle Company, though a little bit too cooked, not quite pink enough. Meat preparation choices on the menu were imaginatively positioned as either cooked vs bloody vs burnt! The cole slaw was excellent, not too sweet nor too heavy on the mayo.
Singing the praises of soup of the day—it doesn’t matter how hot the climate, Letizia always has an urge to have a taste. In this case a very hearty potato soup. Of course sharing was in order for every dish! With every bite, every spoonful, we could taste the cheddar cheese, ham, bacon, carrots and potatoes bathed by a creamy broth. We added a side salad—a small version of the Farm Truck salad with gorgonzola, spiced walnuts, apples and red onions lightly seasoned with a balsamic Italian dressing. The latter’s acidity balanced well with the combination of other ingredients and made it frankly quite addictive. The California BLT was very tasty with avocado added to bacon and a house-made ranch dressing to create a very moist filling between crunchy toasted wheat bread.
No reservations are accepted, so early arrival was necessary as the restaurant filled quickly with a hungry lunch crowd. Service was very friendly though a bit slow. Given the Green Truck’s reputation, I felt compelled to order the Green Truck Classic Burger, plain and simple as an old truck says the menu, topped simply with lettuce, tomato, onion and house-made pickles. The burger patty was rustically shaped by hand, odd corners welcomed here. Nice quality beef from nearby Hunter Cattle company, though a little bit too cooked, not quite pink enough. Meat preparation choices on the menu were imaginatively positioned as either cooked vs bloody vs burnt! The cole slaw was excellent, not too sweet nor too heavy on the mayo.
Singing the praises of soup of the day—it doesn’t matter how hot the climate, Letizia always has an urge to have a taste. In this case a very hearty potato soup. Of course sharing was in order for every dish! With every bite, every spoonful, we could taste the cheddar cheese, ham, bacon, carrots and potatoes bathed by a creamy broth. We added a side salad—a small version of the Farm Truck salad with gorgonzola, spiced walnuts, apples and red onions lightly seasoned with a balsamic Italian dressing. The latter’s acidity balanced well with the combination of other ingredients and made it frankly quite addictive. The California BLT was very tasty with avocado added to bacon and a house-made ranch dressing to create a very moist filling between crunchy toasted wheat bread.
Green Truck opened in October of 2010, and yes there really is a Green Truck. Owner Josh Yates owns a 1965 Chevy Stepside that inspired the restaurant’s name and logo. Although the owner was not on the premises when we visited, Aaron, the young kitchen manager, was happy to talk about his time there. Aaron has been in Savannah over 20 years so considers himself a native. I asked him about what sets Green Truck apart, and he pointed to its goal of obtaining locally-sourced food, even the ketchup is made from scratch, and the menu highlights source farms such as meat from Hunter Cattle Company and vegetables from Canewater Farm, both of which we were to visit during our stay, and the bacon from Applewood Farm. In addition, they go to sell their wares at the Saturday Farmers Market at Forsyth Park. Aaron made the potato soup himself and was justifiably proud of his kitchen’s production. He was representative of what seemed to us to be a young breed of farmers and restaurateurs that we would meet and visit during our 6 days exploring the restaurants and farms of Savannah.
The setting was romantic at a.Lure and the dinner menu extensive. The restaurant bills itself as new southern with a French twist, and with a seafood specialty, offering a contemporary approach to classic southern recipes. Owner Daniel Berman embraces the Farm-to-fork concept, with a love of fresh seafood and produce from the farm. Meats, dairy and produce are all sourced locally. In his opinion, ingredients should be as southern as the dish itself.
Our only disappointment was that with so many choices, we thought the chef should offer a tasting menu to be able to sample more offerings. Our waitress Lindsay was very knowledgeable, and knew which were the best dishes to try. She proved an able guide as we tried to create our own tasting menu, stuffing ourselves with an overabundance of delicious food in the process.
The setting was romantic at a.Lure and the dinner menu extensive. The restaurant bills itself as new southern with a French twist, and with a seafood specialty, offering a contemporary approach to classic southern recipes. Owner Daniel Berman embraces the Farm-to-fork concept, with a love of fresh seafood and produce from the farm. Meats, dairy and produce are all sourced locally. In his opinion, ingredients should be as southern as the dish itself.
Our only disappointment was that with so many choices, we thought the chef should offer a tasting menu to be able to sample more offerings. Our waitress Lindsay was very knowledgeable, and knew which were the best dishes to try. She proved an able guide as we tried to create our own tasting menu, stuffing ourselves with an overabundance of delicious food in the process.
Muffins and focaccia with butter and jam led the way, followed by a savory trio of appetizers. Roasted whole garlic with sweet Vidalia onion relish, smoked tomato puree, balsamic, goat cheese croustade, cornmeal-dusted chicken livers with a parmesan risotto, pan gravy and fried spinach and braised rabbit ravioli Applewood smoked bacon, wild mushrooms, butternut squash, wilted spinach, layered pasta, rosemary and thyme cream sauce. Letizia, a trained chef herself, enjoyed the creamy rabbit ravioli, consumed the garlic with gusto, and savored the chicken livers, which she said reminded her of her Tuscan roots.
Muffins and focaccia with butter and jam led the way, followed by a savory trio of appetizers. Roasted whole garlic with sweet Vidalia onion relish, smoked tomato puree, balsamic, goat cheese croustade, cornmeal-dusted chicken livers with a parmesan risotto, pan gravy and fried spinach and braised rabbit ravioli Applewood smoked bacon, wild mushrooms, butternut squash, wilted spinach, layered pasta, rosemary and thyme cream sauce. Letizia, a trained chef herself, enjoyed the creamy rabbit ravioli, and consumed the garlic with gusto, and savored the chicken livers, which she said reminded her of her Tuscan roots.
Letizia grew up with her great aunt, cooking very country style, from the campagna, made from scratch, making dishes such as fried veal brains. She told me when cooking offal meats, it takes a special talent for preparing these dishes well, which are considered prelibato in Italy, a delicacy, gourmet fare.
Entrees were quite good, with a ground filet mignon meatloaf with mascarpone, broccoli, blue-cheese fingerling potatoes, foie gras, caramelized onions, cauliflower puree and a black truffle mushroom madeira demi-glace, and the Catch of the Day–Wreck fish with boiled potatoes, corn, bacon, tomatoes, sausage and onions.
Letizia grew up with her great aunt, cooking very country style, from the campagna, made from scratch, making dishes such as fried veal brains. She told me when cooking offal meats, it takes a special talent for preparing these dishes well, which are considered prelibato in Italy, a delicacy, gourmet fare.
Entrees were quite good, with a ground filet mignon meatloaf with mascarpone, broccoli, blue-cheese fingerling potatoes, foie gras, caramelized onions, cauliflower puree and a black truffle mushroom madeira demi-glace, and the Catch of the Day–Wreck fish with boiled potatoes, corn, bacon, tomatoes, sausage and onions.
Speaking with Lindsey the waitress after the meal, she told us that the cook is the third since she has been there, born in San Diego, spent time in Africa and Williamsburg, and told her that he would soon start sourcing items from Canewater Farm. Other farm to table restaurants she recommended included Cotton & Rye and one called Atlantic in a former service station. So many choices that some have to wait for another time!
The next day we punched our ticket for lunch at The Grey, handsomely situated inside a strikingly restored 1958 art deco former Greyhound bus terminal. Lunch is served in the Dining Bar, with the kitchen in view through windows where the ticket counters previously were located. Though closed at lunchtime, the main terminal dining area is quite attractive. Tables line up underneath the gates through which bus passengers would pass to begin their journeys. Simple yet tasty flavor combinations graced my entrée, Bison meatballs with Carolina rice and tomatoes while Letizia enjoyed the spicy blackened catfish po boy with creamy potato salad. We could taste the freshness and quality of the ingredients.
The next day we punched our ticket for lunch at The Grey, handsomely situated inside a strikingly restored 1958 art deco former Greyhound bus terminal. Lunch is served in the Dining Bar, with the kitchen in view through windows where the ticket counters previously were located. Though closed at lunchtime, the main terminal dining area is quite attractive. Tables line up underneath the gates through which bus passengers would pass to begin their journeys. Simple yet tasty flavor combinations graced my entrée, Bison meatballs with Carolina rice and tomatoes while Letizia enjoyed the spicy blackened catfish po boy with creamy potato salad. We could taste the freshness and quality of the ingredients.
Although we asked to talk with chef Mashama Bailey, she did not emerge from the kitchen to speak with us. Our server filled us in on her interesting background; a Savannah childhood, graduate of New York’s Institute for Culinary Education, chef experience in New York and internationally in Italy and Africa.
The Grey continues its host building’s long tradition of transporting people to a destination, with a focus on locally sourced ingredients. Restaurant manager Nicole mentioned Hunter Cattle Company and Canewater Farm as suppliers the restaurant works with, both of which we visited during our week’s exploration of farms and tables.
A full day of enjoying the historic quarter meant that we had to schedule a late 9:45 dinner at Alligator Soul. Its underground setting was once a grain warehouse near historic Telfair Square. Opened in 2003, it can lay claim to having the city’s most adventurous menu, from gator egg rolls to exotic selections such as elk, antelope, kangaroo, ostrich, game birds or red deer.
These intriguing exotic game items enticed us. The restaurant web site bills its experience as eclectic southern dining with farm fresh ingredients and local day-boat fish and grass-fed meat. However, we would expect the same level of service even as one of the last diners and we learned they were missing certain key items. The hostess reception and initial waiter reaction as we asked for a corner table but were not accommodated led to a bad start, plus all the exotic game was already finished. The server came across very snobbish, though becoming more attentive as he saw our obvious displeasure with the service and limited offerings.
Making the best of the situation, we had the fried green tomatoes (beer battered and fried tomatillos with sweet pepper jelly) plus the charcuterie board with cheese, fruit, sausage and a slice of pork belly and various breads, plus I had the scallops entree, rather pricey at $35 for 5 pan-seared diver scallops, 3 potatoes rosti and 4 small blistered heirloom tomatoes with parmesan arugula cream sauce and fried basil. We left disappointed, yet still willing to return to sample the game that we’d missed.
Located inside the Andaz Hyatt across from Ellis Square near the City Market, 22 Square provided a delicious start to the day with its breakfast fare. The restaurant is described on its web site as a Community table where friends gather to share modern Southern-inspired cuisine made from locally grown produce and sustainable ingredients and characterized as soulful Southern fare reimagined.
Letizia chose the savory rib eye hash with potatoes, caramelized onions, wilted spinach, cherry tomatoes and over easy eggs with a roasted shallot cream, served up in a cast-iron skillet. I went with a local favorite, Southern Fried chicken on buttermilk waffles with bourbon syrup, every bite sinfully delicious.
Sous Chef Eric Ruleaux stopped by to talk and then we again stopped to chat on leaving. He opened up about his background on cooking in New England, San Francisco, Austin and other places, and his family ties that brought him to Savannah. He agreed the Farm-to-table movement was a relatively new phenomenon for Savannah, and mentioned some of his favorite local spots like Atlantic and Local 11Ten. We remarked on the relative lack of tasting menus available locally, and chef Eric agreed, and said that there still was a lack of sophistication in plating.
He also praised Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room as having the best fried chicken he has ever tasted, exceptionally fresh. We had tried to visit Mrs. Wilkes but the lines are famously long, and start forming early, so be prepared to stand and wait! We will have this high on the list for a return trip.
Sous Chef Eric Ruleaux stopped by to talk and then we again stopped to chat on leaving. He opened up about his background on cooking in New England, San Francisco, Austin and other places, and his family ties that brought him to Savannah. He agreed the Farm-to-table movement was a relatively new phenomenon for Savannah, and mentioned some of his favorite local spots like Atlantic and Local 11Ten. We remarked on the relative lack of tasting menus available locally, and chef Eric agreed, and said that there still was a lack of sophistication in plating.
He also praised Mrs. Wilkes as having the best fried chicken he has ever tasted, exceptionally fresh. We had tried to visit Mrs. Wilkes but the lines are famously long, and start forming early, so be prepared to stand and wait! We will have this high on the list for a return trip.
Built in 1771 as the Habersham House facing Reynolds Square, the Olde Pink House’s name resulted from the coloration that occurred when the soft native brick began to bleed through the plastered walls. In 1811 it became the Planters Bank, Georgia’s first. The former bank vaults are now used as wine cellars.
Lunch at Olde Pink House was a delight, with convivial surroundings and friendly service. The chance to rest in its cool confines was a pleasant escape from the Savannah heat, and the food did not fail to impress.
I succumbed to the siren song of the She Crab soup with sherry, while Letizia admired the BLT Salad, replete with delicious applewood bacon, a fried green tomato with a light breading and a tangy black pepper thyme buttermilk dressing.
I added an entrée of sautéed local Shrimp with country ham gravy, accompanied by a cheddar grits cake that was soft and cheesy inside.
Warm bread pudding with vanilla ice cream provided a suitable finish to the meal. A sublime meal, an excellent example of country style homemade cooking prepared to perfection.
Our waitress not only provided us with excellent service, but told us a bit about Chef Vincent, who has been with the family since the beginning and has won awards such as on Food Network for his creations like the BLT salad. The beautiful home created a lovely setting and we enjoyed the atmosphere, cooking and gracious attention.
Southern hospitality and fine coastal cuisine, teamed with excellent service is on offer at Elizabeth on 37th . The restaurant is housed in an elegant 1900 mansion, built for a cotton broker. Once we figured out the parking situation, ending up behind several other cars in a right hand turn lane in front of the mansion, we ascended the porch and were greeted for dinner. We were seated in a side room with minimal décor, which was disappointing in that we could not see the primary rooms of the house.
The restaurant bills itself as providing Southern hospitality and fine coastal cuisine with a focus on seafood. We enjoyed the seasonal soup appetizer, a hearty asparagus with crab meat, creme fraiche and ham stock. Of course we had to sample seafood here, so I opted for the flaky flounder special with a parmesan crust, accompanied by a medley of vegetables including mushrooms, goat cheese cauliflower soufflé and spinach.Letizia loves spicy fare, so chose the Savannah Red rice with Georgia shrimp to which the chef added half moon river clams, grouper, sausage and grilled okra for a wonderful medley of tastes.
The restaurant bills itself as providing Southern hospitality and fine coastal cuisine with a focus on seafood. We enjoyed the seasonal soup appetizer, a hearty asparagus with crab meat, creme fraiche and ham stock. Of course we had to sample seafood here, so I opted for the flaky flounder special with a parmesan crust, accompanied by a medley of vegetables including mushrooms, goat cheese cauliflower soufflé and spinach.Letizia loves spicy fare, so chose the Savannah Red rice with Georgia shrimp to which the chef added half moon river clams, grouper, sausage and grilled okra for a wonderful medley of tastes.
Savannah touts its haunted connections throughout the city, at its historic hotels and during its many nighttime walking tours around the historic district. Periodically during the evening we felt a light draft at our feet, directing the conversation to ghosts and phantoms from Savannah’s past who must be inhabiting the room!
We finished on a high note with a fresh fruit cobbler with blueberries and peaches plus a dollop of vanilla ice cream.
Savannah touts its haunted connections throughout the city, at its historic hotels and during its many nighttime walking tours around the historic district. Periodically during the evening we felt a light draft at our feet, directing the conversation to ghosts and phantoms from Savannah’s past who must be inhabiting the room!
We finished on a high note with a fresh fruit cobbler with blueberries and peaches plus a dollop of vanilla ice cream.
Sometimes serendipity leads to the best discoveries. The vegetable manager at Canewater Farm had mentioned The Wyld as one of his favorite area restaurants, with the absolute freshest fish. We reworked our reservations schedule to ensure we could visit. Simple in concept, sited on a picturesque dock stretching along the meandering Herb River, the Wyld lies about a 15 minute drive southeast of Forsyth Park, and is well worth the drive.
Pick a beautiful day to make the most of the Wyld, and a memorable experience is assured. The riverside outdoor dining creates a delightful ambiance to enjoy the succulent fresh seafood and vegetables, and the service is extremely accommodating. It was a hot sunny day and we first opted to sit inside upstairs but overly friendly flies were a problem in the enclosed space and we decided to move back onto the dock. The staff accommodated us very willingly, and our new setting was far preferable to catch the breeze and admire the views of the river. Boaters can pull right up to the dock to enjoy the restaurant. The charmingly rustic building, bocce ball court and casual dockside seating invite relaxation and lingering. The menu states “Good Times Guaranteed” and the promise is kept.
Everything we ordered was outstanding. The pan-seared swordfish was amazingly fresh, as were the tomatoes and sautéed callaloo (a green, leafy vegetable akin to Southern greens) with chives, topped by a lemon beurre blanc sauce. The taste treats continued with our orders of three fantastic sides, the first of farm local green and red tomatoes with dill, olive oil and sea salt, the second handlebar collard greens with ham hock pot liquor and the third a seasonal succotash with local beans, veggies and bacon. A return flight to Savannah would be in order just to have this meal again.
The Wyld provides incredible food with the freshest of ingredients (the fish tasted like it had jumped from the water directly onto our plates) and lovely, peaceful views on the river with bright sun tempered by a pleasant breeze. Letizia said it was one of her favorite experiences ever!
Bustling Bay St. provides a wonderful breakfast or brunch stop at B. Matthews Eatery. Michael was our very friendly waiter who told us about the restaurant and shared his perspective on the best dishes to try. He said the restaurant had been a brothel and a warehouse between the building’s construction and the restaurant’s founding! The Chef is Savannah born and has been with the place since its’ opening. Today’s bistro evolved from what was originally a deli and bakery to a full blown eatery. Its website describes its food focus as traditional and new American style dishes, locally sourced when possible.
Letizia took Michael’s suggestion to try the salmon hash, a wonderful mixture of pan-seared salmon, tomatoes, black beans, sweet potatoes, a green pepper and onion hash and a poached egg. It’s a southern reimagination of hash, very fresh and light. Plus she ordered a side of cheese grits laden with fresh tomatoes. I continued my shrimp and grits sampling tour around the city, and B. Matthews has an original take that is very well done. Stone ground grits and succulent shrimp are joined by tomatoes, green onions and Tasso ham mixed with a red-eye gravy.
Bustling Bay St. provides a wonderful breakfast or brunch stop at B. Matthews Eatery. Michael was our very friendly waiter who told us about the restaurant and shared his perspective on the best dishes to try. He said the restaurant had been a brothel and a warehouse between the building’s construction and the restaurant’s founding! The Chef is Savannah born and has been with the place since its’ opening. Today’s bistro evolved from what was originally a deli and bakery to a full blown eatery. Its website describes its food focus as traditional and new American style dishes, locally sourced when possible.
Letizia took Michael’s suggestion to try the salmon hash, a wonderful mixture of pan-seared salmon, tomatoes, black beans, sweet potatoes, a green pepper and onion hash and a poached egg. It’s a southern reimagination of hash, very fresh and light. Plus she ordered a side of cheese grits laden with fresh tomatoes. I continued my shrimp and grits sampling tour around the city, and B. Matthews has an original take that is very well done. Stone ground grits and succulent shrimp are joined by tomatoes, green onions and Tasso ham mixed with a red-eye gravy.
B. Matthews is a comfortable and friendly place that invites leisurely dining and relaxation over a very good meal. When thunderstorms led to the cancellation of our flight the last night and led us to stay one more day, our choice for a multi-hour, leisurely mid-afternoon brunch was B. Matthews, sampling our way through the offerings to the point where our table became of groaning board of an overabundance of dishes that sounded too good to pass up.
River Street Adieu
That last morning we ambled down cobblestoned River Street, taking in a last look at the Savannah River traffic, the moored paddle wheelers Savannah River Queen and Georgia Queen and the waving girl statue representing Florence Martus, who greeted incoming ships for over 40 years. We stopped for breakfast at Hueys on the River. Despite our affection for New Orleans style beignets, and toasting the morning with Mimosas and Bloody Marys, after a week of genuine Savannah low-country cooking, we felt no need to relive the French Quarter when Savannah’s culinary charms are sophisticated and fully engaging on their own.
